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[Warmaster] Allgemeines und Treff


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Also, ich würde sehr gerne mit Warmaster anfangen. Hab mir das Regelbuch vor langer Zeit gekauft und finde die Regeln auf den ersten Blick sehr gut.

Was ich etwas schade finde ist, dass einige Einheiten nicht mehr von GW produziert/verkauft werden. Ich hätte z.B. sehr gerne eine Einheit Schwertmeister.

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Die Einheiten werden noch von GW verkauft. Ganz normal auf der Internetseite von GW per Mailorder. In den Läden gibts keine WM Minis mehr, das stimmt schon.

Jedenfalls unter dem Reiter "Spezialistenssysteme" ist eine große Auswahl zu finden.

Wo kommst du denn her? Weil meist ist ja eher das Problem Spieler in der Umgebung zu finden, die sehr rar gesät sind.

Ich für meinen Teil scheine da Glück zu haben, da es eine kleinere Gruppe in meiner Nähe gibt.

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Auf der Suche nach Fantasy-Miniaturen in 15mm Größe bin ich auf folgende Seite gestoßen:

 

http://www.athens-fantasy.gr/2013/07/warmaster-miniatures-in-the-post-gw-era/

 

 

Leider sind diese alle in 10mm und damit nichts für mich,

aber eventuell wollen einige Warmasterspieler ihre Armeen vergrößern.

 

 

Servus

 

Andreas

 

'Kings of War'-Multiprojekt: In Gedenken an die Ahnen III

Zwergenschlachtberichte: In Gedenken an die Ahnen II [KoW]

Armeeprojekt: Kreuzzug - Aufbruch ins gelobte Land [DBA]

 

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Da ich nun auch (wieder) mit Warmaster anfange, will ich für alle, die vielleicht einen Zugang suchen, die benötigen Spielmaterialien verlinken.

Hier findet ihr alles was ihr braucht und zwar kostenlos, sogar von Rick Priestley persönlich ;)

http://www.ricks-warmaster.com/

http://www.darkagepress.com/WarmasterDownloads.html

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Hier mal eine zusammenfassung des Spieles von Rick Priestley selbst:

 

WARMASTER BASICS

Warmaster is a battle game played on a tabletop representing a battlefield and the area immediately around. The game is played between two opposing sides and in most cases each side is represented by one army and one player. To play Warmaster you will therefore need a decent sized table or similar flat space, a model army, and an opponent with his army.

The Warmaster game attempts to represent huge battles †“ many thousands of men †“ clashing over an area that we imagine to be several square miles across. In keeping with this we therefore use relatively small models to represent the combatants and these are mounted onto plastic or card stands to create the basic playing pieces of the army. Warmaster models are about 10mm tall representing a human sized combatant. 

As you can see each piece consists of a number of individual 10mm high models painted and mounted onto a decorated stand. The stands †“ or bases if you prefer †“ are rectangles 40mm by 20mm and almost all the pieces use this standard sized base. Strictly speaking, you don†™t need to paint the models at all, or you could simply mount them onto stands and paint them an overall blue, red or other distinctive colour †“ however, most players enjoy collecting and painting their armies, and take pride in the majestic appearance of their armies. In fact, to be utterly brutal about it, you can play Warmaster with card stands cut to the correct size and do without models altogether †“ and that†™s not a bad way to learn the game †“ but in essence the game is about armies of models and the glorious spectacle of battle.

The models for Warhammer Fantasy are available from Games Workshop. They are cast in pewter and come in strips of warriors as shown below. Each strip corresponds to the size of a standard Warmaster base and each set contains sufficient strips to make three whole bases together with plastic bases. Games Workshop does not make any models for Warmaster Ancients †“ but lots of other folk do! For the most part models for Ancients are cast individually and you can put as many or as few models onto a base as you wish.

Individual stands are organised into basic playing elements called †˜units†™. A unit consists of three stands and represents a typical fighting formation which you might like to think of as a regiment. The three stands in a unit have to remain touching but can be arranged to make different formations such as a column (stands lined up behind each other) or line (side-by-side), or irregular formation (higgledy piggledy).

Some types of warriors are arranged to face the narrow edge of the stand rather than the long edge †“ notably cavalry in Warmaster Fantasy and The Battle of Five Armies. In Warmaster Ancients some types of troops have the option to face the long or short edge †“ although most players will mount such troops to the short edge out of preference.

 All Warmaster armies include special pieces whose job is to command the army †“ these are the generals, heroes, wizards, commanders and other worthies whose tactical genius will hopefully serve you well on the battlefield. These fellas can go on any sized or shaped base †“ but the usual trick is to put them on round bases so they stand out from the crowd. Most players used washers, coins or something similar up to about 30mm across. If you live in the UK then 1p and 2p pieces are ideal.

A typical Warmaster starter army consists of about 12 individual units plus 2 or 3 command stands †“ although some armies rely on cheap massed troops and require more units whilst others consist of expensive elite troops and require fewer units. This is enough to play a game †“ although some players will continue to expand their armies and lay bigger and bigger games! Most players also like to have a choice of troops that they can field, so they will buy and paint a few extra units to accommodate this.

 

 

The Warmaster Battlefield

 You can play Warmaster on any flat surface †“ ideally a sheet of mdf board or similar material placed on a table †“ though the floor with serve at a push. The armies generally begin a fixed distance apart †“ usually 80cm in Fantasy and 90cm in Ancients †“ so you will need a table at least this wide and preferably a good bit wider. In the UK we mostly play Warmaster on battlefields that are 4 feet wide and either 6 or 8 feet wide †“ because this is the standard size for sheet materials such as chipboard or mdf board.

 A flat surface is a bit boring - after all our intention was to fight over a whole landscape replete with hills and valleys, rivers, woodlands, farms, villages and †“ in the case of Warmaster Fantasy at least †“ unearthly volcanoes and hellish fire pits! Most players like to create a scene to fight over using model railway or similar terrain †“ and you can buy model trees and even buildings and other terrain items that are suitable. Warmaster models are about the same size as †˜N†™ gauge model railways so anything made to fit †˜N†™ gauge will pretty much do the job. For hills, valleys and similar undulating terrain you can either make your own features using material such as polystyrene boards or you can buy pre-made terrain such as the Games Workshop plastic hills. For historic buildings to match with your army you can either make your own from card if you are suitably skilled or you can buy models from any number of suppliers who make models specifically for wargames †“ see the links section for more about those.

 If you enjoy making the scenery †“ and if you have the space to store your creations †“ then you might want to go for purpose built set-up using sculpted terrain boards. This is a rather advanced option †“ but it does look good. Using this kind of system the battlefield is made up of individual blocks which fit together to represent rolling terrain with hills and valleys all sculpted in place. Most players will go for something simpler †“ but it†™s worth while taking a look at a rolling terrain battlefield because the greater realism gives us a better idea of what we†™re trying to represent even when using simpler solutions.

Most players go for the practical solution of a flat table with individual pieces of terrain that they can place on top to give a good impression of the topography. So a wood is represented by a piece or card or board about the size of a dinner plate with model trees places on it: because troops will want to move through the wood it†™s a good idea to place the trees loosely so they can be moved or removed to permit troop movement. Similarly, a village can be represented by a similar piece of card or board with model buildings place loosely on top. All of these are practical solutions that can still look good with a bit of effort.

Quelle: http://www.ricks-warmaster.com/index.html

bearbeitet von lameth76
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Playing a Warmaster Game

 There is more than one way to play a Warmaster game †“ but for the most part a battle begins by both players deploying their armies on opposing sides of the battlefield either 80cm or 90cm apart. All distances in Warmaster are measured in centimetres and players will need to provide themselves with a tape measure to determine moves, shooting ranges and so forth. In Warmaster players are free to measure any distances any time they like, whether it is their turn or otherwise. Dice are needed to make various tests and to resolve the results of combat †“ a good twenty or thirty dice are required.

 At the start of the game each player begins by working out his army†™s break point and telling his opponent what this is. This is usually half the total number of units in the army †“ although not all types of unit count towards the break point so often it will be something less than half the total. Once the number of units equal to the break point has been destroyed the army is defeated and the game is over. It†™s important to know what your opponent†™s break point is as this establishes what you must do to win the game.

Command and Movement

A dice is rolled to decide which side gets the first turn after which players take it in turns to move their armies and shoot with missile troops. In his turn the player attempts to give his individual units orders to move, and he rolls dice to determine whether he has done so successfully. The player starts by nominating which unit he wishes to move. Every commander or character model has a Command value (typically 7, 8 or 9). The player rolls 2 dice and adds the scores together to get a result of between 2 and 12. If the dice roll score equal to or under the Command value then the commander or character has successfully issued his order and his nominated unit moves up to its proscribed maximum distance.

Units can move more than once each turn, and commanders can continue giving orders to the same or different units until they fail a dice roll. If an order is failed then not only does the commander stop issuing orders that turn, but the unit itself cannot receive orders and therefore will not move. As you can imagine †“ the trick is to keep your units in coherent fighting formations and not to hare off into the distance just because you have rolled a few lucky dice!

The Command roll is also modified by various factors that make it harder for orders to be issued or received. For example, if the distance between the commander and the unit he wishes to move is very great then it will be harder for the order to be issued and a suitable penalty is applied. Similarly is a unit has taken casualties (which means some stands will have been removed) it is less enthusiastic about obeying orders. Most importantly, if a unit is given successive orders a rolling penalty of -1 is applied to each making it increasingly difficult to move units that have already moved in the turn.

To make matters more interesting units are allowed to use their initiative and move without orders in some situations †“ primarily if they are very close to the enemy. Units using their initiative are quite restricted in what they can do †“generally speaking they must either attack or retreat away from the closest enemy. This is very useful once the opposing armies close for action as it means units are able to engage without relying on orders from their commanders.

A further wrinkle is that units arranged into blocks or connected groups can be given orders and moved at the same time. This enables larger groups of units to be moved all at once. This obviously makes moving easier and it prevents units becoming separated from their friends and hence vulnerable to enemy action. It also means they might all fail to receive an order at the same time and get stuck where they are of course †“ but at least they won†™t be on their own.

Movement normally ends once all the commanders have failed their rolls or because all units have moved as far as they wish. In any case, once movement is complete the player can engage the enemy with long ranged shooting from weapons such as bows, crossbows, bolt-throwing engines, javelins and magic spells (though not in Warmaster Ancients of course!)

 

Shooting

 Stands capable of shooting have a range (usually 15cm or 30cm) and can shoot at enemy units within this distance. Shooters must always target the nearest enemy unit and don†™t get any choice about this †“ so it is important to align shooters against their preferred targets when moving. Generally speaking, each shooting stand rolls a dice and scores a †˜hit†™ on the target unit on the roll of a 4 or more. If the enemy stand is either behind cover or upslope of the shooters we refer to it as †˜defended†™ and a 5 or 6 is required to hit. If the stand is occupying a fortified building such as a castle or the ramparts of a fortress then we refer to it as †˜fortified†™ and a 6 is needed to hit. For example, a bow armed unit shoots at an enemy unit. 3 stands shoot so roll 3 dice. The enemy unit is neither defended nor fortified (it is †˜in the open†™) so dice rolls of 4, 5 or 6 will score hits. If the dice rolls are 3, 5 and 6 then 2 hits are scored.

Most troops can potentially shrug off the effects of a hit either because they are protected physically by armour or shields, or because they are inured to the death and injury of their fellows. This natural resilience is represented by the unit†™s Armour value and expressed as 6+, 5+, 4+ and in a few rare cases 3+. The player whose unit has been shot at rolls a dice for each hit scored and every dice that rolls equal or higher than the Armour value negates the effect of the hit. For example, if a unit has Armour of 5+ and has taken 2 hits from shooting, the player rolls 2 dice †“ if these dice score 3 and 6 then 1 hit has been negated or †˜saved†™. The number of hits scored is therefore reduced to 1. Some units have no Armour value at all †“ they cannot save against hits struck against them †“ such units are very vulnerable to both shooting and hand-to-hand combat.

Each unit can suffer only a limited number of hits before it loses a stand †“ usually this is 3. This is called the unit†™s Hits value and if the units suffers hits equal to its Hits value a stand is removed. However, if a unit accumulates too few hits to remove one or more whole stands from enemy shooting then any odd hits are simply ignored once all shooting is complete. Often only 1 or 2 hits will be inflicted because a shooting unit only has 3 shots to start with (1 dice per stand shooting), so often it will be necessary to combine the shooting of two or more units onto the same target. However, shooting is useful in other ways because units taking hits from missile fire are driven back and may become confused as a result.

Units taking hits from shooting are driven back away from the shooters. To work out how far roll a dice for each hit suffered †“ so 2 hits 2 dice, 3 hits 3 dice and so on. Add the dice rolls together and move the unit back that far, so 2 dice scoring 4 and 5 = 9cm move. Furthermore if any dice rolled for drive back is a †˜6†™ then the unit becomes confused. Confused units are unable to move in their following turn †“ which is obviously a big disadvantage and can break up a whole attack. This is the basic role of missile-fire in Warmaster †“ to disrupt enemy formations and break up the cohesion of the enemy army. Shooting alone rarely wins battles †“ but it is often instrumental in winning battles one-the-less.

coloured dice or separate markers placed next to the units themselves. Once units end combat and are no longer fighting any odd hits they have accumulated are discarded exactly as described for shooting. This is worth remembering because sometimes it is worth falling back from a combat you have won to shed accumulated hits, rather than pressing home your pursuit and losing a whole stand as a result.

 

Hand-to-Hand Combat

When units move into each other they fight hand-to-hand combat and often several units will be involved in the same combat because they are all touching at some point. Units that initiative the combat by moving into the enemy are described as charging. All stands that touch an enemy stand fight in hand-to-hand combat, including the enemy stands that have been charged as well as stands that have charged.

Combat results are worked out more-or-less like shooting except that both sides fight. Rather than rolling 1 dice per stand the players roll the number of dice for each stand indicated under its Attacks value (often 3 for most troops) plus various modifers. For example, stands that have charged generally roll an extra dice, whereas stands that have enemies attacking them to the side roll one less dice. Total up all the dice for the stands attacking each enemy unit and roll the dice †“ as with shooting scores of 4, 5 or 6 indicate the target unit has been †˜hit. As with shooting units can be defended or fortified (5+ or 6 to hit) but in most situations combats take place †˜in the open†™ and the score needed will be 4 or more. Hits can be saved by the target†™s †˜Armour†™ roll exactly as for shooting and once these †˜saves†™ have been taken the unit suffers the number of hits remaining. For example, 12 Attacks might roll 6 hits of which 2 are saved which results in 4 hits suffered.

Both sides work out their attacks before any casualties are removed †“ so there is no advantage to rolling first or second †“ any casualties suffered during the fighting can fight back before they are removed. Once both sides have worked out their Attacks we work out which side has won. Broadly speaking the side which has caused the most hits wins †“ but it is possible to add bonuses to the results that can mean a unit wins even though it has suffered more hits. The most important bonus comes from supporting stands of infantry †“ a stand of infantry stood directly behind a fighting stand of infantry adds +1 to the combat result even tough it is not fighting itself. This means a unit of three stands in a line with another unit of three stands stood directly behind will have a +3 bonus even before it strikes a blow. This support bonus can be pivotal in deciding which side wins †“ the better supported side will often win the fight even if the enemy troops are better fighters or more heavily armoured.

Once the result is worked out the losing side must retreat a distance equal to the difference in combat results. For example, if a unit loses a combat by 4 it retreats 4cm. Big formation divide the difference between them †“ so if 4 units lost the same combat by 4 they all retreat 1cm. This is important because the further a unit retreats the bigger a bonus any pursuers receive to their Attack dice. A victorious unit can fall back from the combat if it wishes †“ or the player can pursue the enemy and fight again. Units can fight twice in any combat engagement †“ if the defeated side retreats in the first round and the victors pursue, then fight a second round of combat straight away. This enables troops to press home their attack and potentially destroy the enemy altogether.

There are some situations where victorious troops cannot pursue or where retreating troops are automatically destroyed. For example, infantry cannot pursue retreating cavalry in most circumstances †“ this simply reflects the ability of horsemen to avoid combat with foot-sloggers where they are free to move away. Conversely, troops obliged to retreat into enemies or into terrain they cannot enter are destroyed. 

If units remain engaged after two rounds of fighting they stay where they are and resume combat in the following turn. This enables other units to join the combat, and it is perfectly possible for combats to last for several turns and to be reinforced repeatedly by both sides. So long as troops remain in combat any hits they have taken accumulate and any casualties are removed at the end of each round. It is necessary to record the number of hits each unit has suffered †“ and the best way to do this is generally with distinctly coloured dice or separate markers placed next to the units themselves. Once units end combat and are no longer fighting any odd hits they have accumulated are discarded exactly as described for shooting. This is worth remembering because sometimes it is worth falling back from a combat you have won to shed accumulated hits, rather than pressing home your pursuit and losing a whole stand as a result.

 

Quelle: http://www.ricks-warmaster.com/index.html

bearbeitet von lameth76
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Verwendet jemand für Warmaster Papierminiaturen?
Ich habe neulich ein Paar Bilder von Papier Armeen gesehen.
Wie das zB:
http://i.imgur.com/flwwDg5.jpg

 

Ich hatte nur überlegt ob man solche "Einheiten" nicht entsprechend verkleinern könnte und dann für Warmaster einsetzen.

Kennt jemand nen Anbieter von so Papierarmeen, der auch einen großteil der Völker abdeckt?

 

Hab zumeist nur welche gefunden die 1 oder 2 Rassen haben.

Grüße Kaldour
-Das Chaos wird die Ordnung besiegen, da es besser organisiert ist- Terry Prattchet

www.instagram.com/gentlemens_dice_club

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Heyho, gibt's eigentlich nich irgendwo Leute die warmaster zocken oder zocken wollen - hab alte WD mal wieder durchgeblättert ubd mich wieder direkt in die Minis ubd den Maßstab verliebt und dann ebay angeworfen und wie der Zufall so will günstig ne orkarmee geschossen...

 

Also muss ich nun anfangen das Spiel auch zu spielen - wo seid ihr ihr Warmaster Spieler??? :)

 

Wohne in ffm bin aber zum Beispiel auch öfter daheim in Berlin und könnte auch da mal zocken. 

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Über die Lebendigkeit der Armee kann man wahrscheinlich streiten - aber Warmaster selbst lebt in der neuesten Staffel des P500/P250. DasBilligeAlien hat es sich selbst zur Aufgabe gemacht, eine seiner Armeen im Rahmen eines P500 mit Farbe zu versehen:

 

DasBilligeAlien | Gruftkönige von Khemri: Vertrocknet trotz Wadenwickel!

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Meine Krieger und ich stehen bereit, um jeden zu überrennen, der Widerstand leistet!

Projekte: Die Krieger des ungeteilten Chaos, Der Marsch der Legionen (Chaos Space Marines), Die Streitmacht Heinrichs des Verteidigers (Bretonia)

Schlachtberichte: Tholons Weg zum ewigen Ruhm (Krieger des Chaos), Itriels ewiger Krieg (Chaos Space Marines)

Wege zur Verdammnis - eine Erzählung chaotischen Ausmaßes...

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Am 9.7.2017 um 14:29 schrieb 2-Green-2-Stop-Kill:

Wohne in ffm bin aber zum Beispiel auch öfter daheim in Berlin und könnte auch da mal zocken. 

 

Am 19.7.2017 um 18:05 schrieb DasBilligeAlien:

@2-Green-2-Stop-Kill

Habe hier noch Warmaster Armeen rumliegen. Wohne nördlich von FFM. 

 

Hey, ich wohn im Frankfurter Norden und hab drei bemalte Armeen rumliegen (Imperium, Khemri, Hochelfen, alle 2000-3000p). Ich pm Euch mal.

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vor 10 Stunden schrieb sonicblue:

 

 

 

Hey, ich wohn im Frankfurter Norden und hab drei bemalte Armeen rumliegen (Imperium, Khemri, Hochelfen, alle 2000-3000p). Ich pm Euch mal.

 

Immer her damit :D

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Bau mir gerade für Kings of War zwei 10mm Armeen auf, aber würde dann auch gern mal damit in Warmaster reinschnüffeln.

Hab erst heute davon erfahren das es wohl ein Fanprojekt mit überarbeiteten Regeln gibt. Hat jemand von euch Erfahrung mit der Fanbased 2nd Edition? Warmaster Revolution?

 

Grüße Kaldour
-Das Chaos wird die Ordnung besiegen, da es besser organisiert ist- Terry Prattchet

www.instagram.com/gentlemens_dice_club

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Meine Güte, die Miniaturen sehen ja großartig aus. Da bekomme ich sofort Lust auch irgendwas damit zu spielen. Richtig cool. Den Hersteller beobachte ich weiter. Auch wenn ich lange keine Zeit für so ein Projekt haben werde. Danke für den Tipp.

Empfehlung PC Spiel: Dawn of War II Retribution: Elite Mod. Gute Videocasts: Indrid Casts

 

Mein Sammelthema

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Menschen und Elfen werden aktuell ausgebaut. Ich würde bei Khemri einsteigen und als Gegner die Menschen oder ... Orks wären auch Cool. 
 

@Torgroll

Danke! Ein Maßstab wäre cool, wie ein alter Space Marine oder Cadianer oder eine Münze. 
Bist du zufrieden?

 

Gruß,

Jan

Empfehlung PC Spiel: Dawn of War II Retribution: Elite Mod. Gute Videocasts: Indrid Casts

 

Mein Sammelthema

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Habe mir gerade ein paar Waldelfen geordert, die Minis sehen auf den Bildern einfach zu genial aus, um sie übergehen zu können.

Das Warmaster Regelbuch habe ich ebenfalls noch im Keller.. jetzt fehlt nur noch ein Gegner, passendes Gelände und im Grunde ... ein Plan :D

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Hohepriester des Backwahn

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Danke für den Tipp mit ExcellentMiniatures, die sehen richtig gut aus. 
 

Beim Überfliegen der Range sieht es so aus, als wären bei keinem Volk die beliebtesten Einheiten vollständig verfügbar. Ich will damit sagen, dass es für kein Volk möglich ist, eine Armee nur aus ExcellentMiniatures aufzubauen. 
 

stimmt mein Eindruck?

 

Nachtrag: Die Waldelfen sehen ziemlich vollständig aus. 

bearbeitet von crabking
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